"This is the bestest trip ever!"

When you hear those words from a 5 year old, you know it's a successful bushwalk.

This is my first hike with Lori (my beautiful lady and I should also mention, a fellow-blogger, over at RRSAHM) and her two kidlets. I'm hoping it will be the first of many, so this sentence is music to my ears.

Waking to a glorious autumn day, we decide it's the perfect time to finally go and check out a spot we've driven past many times but never stopped at, Cave Creek Walking Track, in the tiny town of Hill Top on the edge of the New South Wales Southern Highlands.

We set off from the trailhead with no idea what to expect, but it isn't long before we're pleasantly surprised. As we descend the eroded, rocky track through dry sclerophyll woodlands toward the creek, we come across a massive set of Hawkesbury sandstone outcrops beside the track. Surrounded mainly by flowering Hill Banksia, juvenile grass trees, and Scribbly Gums, it's quite picturesque. I'd be satisfied if this is as pretty as the scenery gets, but the surprises continue.

Hill Banksia (Banksia Spinulosa)

Coming to a turn-off we see a metal staircase and, figuring it leads down to the creek, we go for a look. It does indeed lead to a creek, but the creek meanders into the darkness of a huge sandstone cave. For some reason the kids are slightly freaked out by the cave, and unimpressed when their mum races off to explore with only a mobile phone for light. Lori tells me later that she thinks it probably has something to do with all the ghosts and monsters that inhabit caves on Scooby Doo. I work on convincing them the cave's more cool than freaky, and soon she emerges.

We meet some other walkers on our way back up the stairs and they recommend continuing on to the end of the main track. The kids still aren't showing any signs of having had enough, so we go with it. After a few hundred more metres the track curves back around toward the creek and we descend into a lush valley, kept dark and damp by the high sandstone cliffs on either side. The valley floor is thick with ferns, and exceptionally tall Coachwood trees stretch up in search of sunlight. The creek, having found its way out the other side of the cave, winds its way between them.

We stop here and cross the creek to explore. The kids notice the finest details of this little hidden world, especially in awe of all the moss-covered rocks and fallen-trees.

"This looks like a fairy garden", the 3 year old remarks. I agree without much thought, but then I realise I can see what she sees. For a brief moment, I get a glimpse into just how awesome it would be to see the world through her eyes.

Disclaimer: We forgot to bring a camera on this trip and our smart-phone photos were a bit of a disaster. We'll go back and take better photo's soon.

Have you visited Cave Creek? If you have any stories, updates or corrections, please let us know by commenting below.

Are you interested in more from Bushwalking Blog? You can either sign-up for the e-mail newsletter, or get updates via the RSS feed, Facebook or Twitter.

The post Cave Creek Walking Track: An unexpected paradise on NSW’s Southern Highlands appeared first on Bushwalking Blog.

Traversing this rocky cliff-top is slow going. I’m surrounded by a dense but low patchwork of ground-covers and shrubs, and with every step I feel the twisted branches of the coastal heath grabbing at my gaiter-clad legs.

I pause to rest and, as I look around, it strikes me that relatively few people have ever walked here before. I’m off-track in one of the most remote areas of Flinders Chase National Park, following one of the harshest and most stunning coastlines I’ve ever seen. This isn’t easy walking, but the views are worth working for.

Walking from Snake Lagoon to Cape De Couedic.

This section of coastline was once overrun with goats - it seems like the perfect place for them. They were culled by helicopter in recent years, and now their bones litter the rocky cliff-tops.

Our guide, Holger, points out the rugged, sharp-edged rocks that we’re walking on.

“Imagine walking on this with no shoes.”

He goes on to tell us about a group of four shipwreck survivors who spent more than two weeks walking here in search of help, having lost their shoes while battling violent swells on their desperate swim to shore.

They were the only survivors out of 34 passengers and crew on the Loch Sloy, which went down near here in 1899. After making it to shore and somehow managing to scale these intimidating sea-cliffs, three of them managed to make it to safety. How any of them made it at all is hard to comprehend.

Any complaints that I’m resisting the urge to voice about tired legs and the hot sun are jolted into perspective. I’ve never been more thankful for my hiking shoes, and I could hug the folks from Australian Wilderness Adventures for providing me with a pair of gaiters.

Even on a 16 km stretch, the vegetation and geology of this coastline is incredibly varied.

There are sections of beach-walking on each of the two off-track days. Australian Wilderness Adventures suggests that guest bring a "karma bag" and pick up some of the plastic rubbish that litters these otherwise pristine beaches, and kills thousands of marine animals and millions of birds each year.

This is day 4 of the Australian Wilderness Adventures 5-day Kangaroo Island Walking Tour. If you’re thinking it sounds a bit too challenging for you, just stick with me here... The itinerary consists of two days of off-track walking (13 and 16km’s) alternating with three easier days (5 – 9 km’s). Each day includes a visit to one of the island’s more popular attractions, either before or after a walk. The tour caters well for all levels of hiker.

After a ranger-guided tour of Kelly Hill Caves on our first day, we enjoyed an easy 9 km stroll through Kelly Hill Conservation Park to our accommodation at Hanson Bay. This was a great introduction to the flora and fauna of the island, which is quite unique. But having had very little sleep in my hostel dorm room the night before, I must admit that the highlight was walking over a sand-dune and spotting Hanson Bay Cabins, perched on the hill overlooking the bay.

I like sleeping in a tent as much as the next hiker, but I’m not averse to having a roof over my head either. “The ten dollar accommodation with the million dollar view”, as the cabins seem to be affectionately known, strikes a nice balance between the two. The view from the cabins makes the perfect backdrop for our evenings of relaxing and getting to know each other, over a few drinks and a meal.

Australian Wilderness Adventures provide an amazing selection of food (yes, even for vegetarians!), with a focus on local produce. Every meal was sensational, and they didn’t even make me feel like too much of an outcast. It probably actually worked out that I got more food than everyone else. Total win.

Each night we watch the sunset over the sea-cliffs behind Hanson Bay Cabins, with a nice glass of Kangaroo Island red in hand.

Kangaroo Island’s wildlife is undoubtedly a stand-out for many visitors. During our hikes we see all kinds of coastal birdlife, kangaroos, Tammar wallabies, goannas, fur seals, and even an almost-white echidna. That’s right, I said white... Apparently Kangaroo Island is touted as Australia’s Galápagos, since some species here have evolved differently to those on the mainland.

The critically endangered hooded plover breed on the beaches here, where they have fewer predators than on the mainland.

Tammar wallabies can be found all over the island but catching a good photo is tricky. These ones were being fed at the koala sanctuary.

These almost white echidnas can be spotted all over Kangaroo Island.

New Zealand fur seals rest and play all along the south western coastline of the island, but the best photo opportunities can be found at Admirals Arch.

A goanna we spotted on the Ravine Des Casoars hike.

We also visit an Australian sea lion sanctuary, where we walk amongst the sea lions as they rest. They appear deliciously sun-baked and lazy, but this is the ‘down-time’ of their feeding cycle - the sea lions spend three days in the water fishing continually, followed by three days of rest and relaxation on the beach. The certainly look happy about that - I know I would be.

The walking tour also includes a visit to the koala sanctuary, where we unfortunately only see one of the highly endangered, naturally shy marsupials.

Australian sea lions - these ones seem to be getting a bit
frisky... Must have had enough relaxing.

The seal colony at Admirals Arch and the imposing, Daliesque form of Remarkable Rocks are some of the other, more-touristy highlights of the itinerary. But we’re at a distinct advantage, being able to visit these places either early or late in the day, so we barely see another soul for the entire trip. We’re also lucky to have Holger at our disposal, to tell us all about the island’s natural and human history. His detailed knowledge of the area astounds me.

One of my fellow-hikers takes in Remarkable Rocks.

Our second day's hiking started from Remarkable Rocks. Here the group is spreading out and making their own path, in order to keep our impact low.

The Ravine Des Casoars hike (on day 3) leads to a beautiful beach, lined with caves of all shapes and sizes.

Two of my fellow-hikers crossing the mudflats at Murray Lagoon, on our final Kangaroo Island hike. Murray lagoon was a brilliant spot for bird watching.

I’ve wanted to visit Kangaroo Island for a long time, and I had an idea that it would be a pretty amazing place. This tour certainly confirmed my suspicions – Australia’s third largest island, situated just off the South Australian coastline, is a remarkable place to be.

Neil was a guest of Australian Wilderness Adventures on this hike. This does not influence the views put forward here in any way.

Have you visited Kangaroo Island? If you have any stories, updates or corrections, please let us know by commenting below.

Are you interested in more from Bushwalking Blog? You can either sign-up for the e-mail newsletter, or get updates via the RSS feed, Facebook or Twitter.

The post Kangaroo Island: Dramatic coastlines, off-track hiking, and a bit of luxury appeared first on Bushwalking Blog.

The Andes are the world’s longest continental mountain range. At over 7,000 km long, they run across the western side of Latin America to dive deep down in the ocean behind Patagonia most southern land: Ushuaia.

I have always found it fascinating to study ancient cultures and the way they relate to the present world. They certainly lived very differently to the way we live today, interconnected by the digital era.

Crossing a bridge over Las Cuevas River, the starting-point of the Mount Penitentes trek.

Some ancient cultures, such as the Incas were true pioneer adventurers. This Andean civilization is made up by a loose patchwork of different groups that developed from Colombia’s highlands to the Atacama dessert. However, due to the fact that they believed high mountain peaks had a closer connection to their Gods, some isolated groups set out in the search of the Andes highest mountains.

A fox searching for food close to base camp.

In 1987 an Argentinean climbing party was attempting Aconcagua’s southeast ridge, known as ‘The Pyramid’. This is a technical route where climbing ropes; ice axes and crampons are needed. At about 5,400 metres high, the team found a perfectly mummified Inca child. It was almost entirely buried in the ice with just a portion of its skull exposed. Carbon-14 studies dated this mummy to the mid fifteenth century. At the time ‘The Pyramid’ was easily accessible; perhaps smoother snow lopes covered the mixed rock and ice terrain present today. It is worth noticing that Aconcagua lays thousands of kilometres to the south of Machu Picchu, the Inca Empire’s capital.

A stunning view of Mt Penitentes north ridge.

On their quest to reach high mountains, they also climbed Mt. Penitentes. This is a very interesting and peculiar mountain. It is 4,300 metres high and much more accessible than Aconcagua, which makes this the ideal mountain for trekking in the Central Andes. It has overwhelming views of Aconcagua south face and other 6,000 metres mountains around, such as Tupungato Volcano (6,800 metres).

These are ice-formations called 'Penitentes'. These appear at altitudes of over 4,000 metres, and are generally oriented with the blades facing the sun.

Dozens of condors, the largest flying land birds in the Western Hemisphere, have their nest on the north Mt. Penitentes ridge. Chances are that you will see some flying over your head, particularly when the atmospheric pressure decreases.

Breathtaking views of Mount Aconcagua's south face abound on this hike.

Archaeological findings on this mountain main summit, suggest that the Incas climbed it too. Furthermore, archaeologists believe that Mt. Penitentes served as an observation point for what would later become the place where an Incan child was sacrificed. Once you reach its summit, you realize this theory makes absolute sense. The view of Aconcagua’s southeast ridge is impressive and with its Pyramid form, it truly looks like a massive stairway to heaven.

A few meters below the North summit.

There are several companies that can assist you with the trekking organization and logistics. No particular climbing skills are needed to reach the summit. However, if you don’t have strong navigational skills and do not know how to deal with acclimatization and altitude effects, it is strongly suggested that you hire a local guide. There are plenty of guide’s companies in Mendoza City.

This is one of the most beautiful and culturally-rich treks you could do. Keep in mind you are following the Incas paths, left there more than 500 years ago.

Have you visited Mount Penitentes? If you have any stories, updates or corrections, please let us know by commenting below.

Are you interested in more from Bushwalking Blog? You can either sign-up for the e-mail newsletter, or get updates via the RSS feed, Facebook or Twitter.

The post Hiking Mount Penitentes, Mendoza, Argentina: Getting closer to the gods in the Andes appeared first on Bushwalking Blog.

Everybody praises Magnetic Island’s nice beaches, nature, and quiet, but few people speak about its history. The Fort Walk is my favourite trail because it combines the beauties of nature with the vestiges of history.

Structures on the island date back to the Second World War. Though many were destroyed, along the way you’ll still find the foundation of the battery, some ammunition storage, and the command post and observation post. From the highest point, there are splendid views of Arthur and Florence Bays, and the coastline of the mainland.

This video is just a hint of the real tour, where the park ranger shows visitors the characteristics of the local flora, fauna, and explains the history.

If you are lucky, you can come across wildlife along the way… Keep an eye out for koalas.

Have you visited Magnetic Island? If you have any stories, updates or corrections, please let us know by commenting below.

Are you interested in more from Bushwalking Blog? You can either sign-up for the e-mail newsletter, or get updates via the RSS feed, Facebook or Twitter.

The post Video: World War II heritage and sober koalas: Hiking Queensland’s Magnetic Island appeared first on Bushwalking Blog.

“Babanas, djurumins, gamaradas, naa niyas, Dharawal yura ngura dji.”

Carrol, our guide from Sydney Coast Walks, welcomes us in the tongue of the Dharawal people. She provides us with a rough translation, but the opening words - “Brothers, sisters, friends” – are what stay with me.

This traditional welcome sets the tone for the day. The Dharawal have lived in this region for thousands of years, and Royal National Park protects many remnants of their culture. Nearby is a large mound of sand and shells.

“Does anyone know what this is?” Carrol asks, pointing at the mound. We look at each other, puzzled.

“It’s a midden... More than a thousand years old.”

She explains that the indigenous people would leave all their food waste - shells, bones, etc. - in one place, and that this assisted with the sustainable use of the area’s food resources. As the different clans moved around the region, they could see what food sources had most recently been tapped, and choose to eat something different so that each source had a chance to replenish.

A stingray is among many figures etched into rock by indigenous people many years ago.

We have just taken our first steps inside Royal National Park, after disembarking the ferry from Cronulla and taking a short stroll through the village of Bundeena. The real hike begins here, at Jibbon Beach.

I'm feeling energetic and excited at the walk that lies ahead, though I can’t help but wonder how much of it will be on sand. Remembering that the walk description touted hiking along cliff-tops, I'm reassured. The first day’s walk does turn out to be relatively easy and not too hilly. Despite the blistering heat and mostly unsheltered trail, the sea-breeze and leisurely pace make it very pleasant.

As we continue to weave our way along the cliff-tops, inland through sclerophyll forest, and down along beaches and rocky shore-lines, Carrol tells us more about the Dharawal, their lifestyle, and their “dreaming”, with a particular focus on their respect for and sustainable use of the land.

Depending on tides, sections of the walk can be taken
along the rocky shoreline.

The most interesting tale is about a unique relationship that the early inhabitants shared with the Orca whales, which are a totemic animal for the Dharawal. Carrol refers to this relationship as “the law of the tongue”. We stop at a large sandbar that is visible near the base of the cliffs we’re traversing, and she explains how the Orcas would chase the Humpback whales, forcing them to strand themselves on a sandbar. This allowed the hunters to kill the whale, providing food for an annual gathering, where all of the clans of the Dharawal nation would come together to celebrate recent births and marriages. The tongue of the Humpback would be removed and given as an offering of thanks to the Orcas.

By the last hour of the day’s walking, the collective mood of the group is waning. With the hot late-afternoon sun beating down on us, we’re all well and truly ready for a rest and a swim. Soon enough we hear the playful screaming of children, a sign that we’re about to make it to our camp-site on the cliffs above Wattamolla Beach.

The many colours of Hawkesbury Sandstone are a wonderful
feature of the coastline.

Sydney Coast Walks founder, Ian Wells, greets us at our dining gazebo. He offers cold beer, wine, and soft-drinks. We rest our tired legs while enjoying a cheese platter and delicious freshly-baked bread, dipped in lemon-infused olive oil and Australian bush-herbs. I can’t imagine any nicer way to finish a day of hiking.

After a beer and a chat we all head down to the beach to cool off, before returning for more drinks, and a dinner that could never be matched on your average overnight hiking trip. Exhausted and with full bellies, we turn in not long after the sun sets.

We awake to Carrol cooking up a storm, and the sun rising over Boy Martin Point. Ian returns to pack up our camp-site, as we depart for an early start on our second day’s walking. The trail between Wattamolla and Otford is even more spectacular, taking in a more hilly terrain, several beaches where we have the option of a swim, sandstone rock formations such as Eagle Rock (the emblem of Royal National Park), and an incredible variety of vegetation types.

Carrol stops regularly to point out interesting plants, such as Gymea Lilies, Pigface, Flannel Flower, and Angophora. She tells less stories of the Dharawal than on our previous day. Instead the focus is more on the natural features, and the European history of the area. For example, the heritage-listed shack communities at Little Garie, Era and Burning Palms.

Carrol checks out Eagle Rock.

Fringe Lily.

These communities grew during the depression, when unemployed minors moved here to survive the harsh times. Some of the shacks have been handed down through families for up to five generations. We are welcomed at Little Garie by one of the ‘shackies’ and filled in on the details of how the shacks came to be, as well as the on-going fight to keep them.

Towards the end of the day we enter an unexpected pocket of coastal (or “littoral”) rainforest, dubbed “Palm Jungle”. With much of the hot sun blocked out by lush palms and tree-ferns, this was the highlight of my day’s walking. Weaving our way through the thick vegetation, pushing vines out of our way as we go, I can’t help but be reminded of old Vietnam war movies. This is a very unusual section of coastline. Just when we thought we’d seen everything the park had to offer.

After a final challenging climb, and a couple more kilometres of gentle walking, we find ourselves at the end of the hike. This had been a more challenging day than the first, and we are proud to have earned our rest. We head to Otford Station, where some of the group catch trains back to the city. How incredible, to find such a pristine national park within a suburban train ride of Sydney’s CBD.

Much of the second day's walking is quite exposed.

Carrol looks back at the coastline we've just finished walking.

Have you visited Sydney's Royal National Park? If you have any stories, updates or corrections, please let us know by commenting below.

Are you interested in more from Bushwalking Blog? You can either sign-up for the e-mail newsletter, or get updates via the RSS feed, Facebook or Twitter.

The post Cliff-tops, caves, and coastline: Hiking through history at Sydney’s Royal National Park appeared first on Bushwalking Blog.

Most bushwalkers have a spiritual home, a favourite walking region that they know better than others. For me, it’s definitely the Blue Mountains or “The Blueys”. For those unfamiliar with the area, the main accessible walking spots are in the valleys either side of the Great Western Highway (ie. The Grose Valley to the north, Jamison Valley to the south and the Megalong Valley to the west).

This particular walk starts around the western end of the Grose Valley, at the end of Victoria Falls Road and follows first Victoria Creek (the source of the falls) and then the Grose Valley down to the famous Blue Gum Forest.

Entering the Blue Gum Forest

Now, every walking region seems to have its nemesis. A particular mountain or route that brings on either a cold sweat or cheeky grin when it gets discussed - usually in hushed and reverent tones around a camp-fire.

The hardcore amongst us relish the challenge and keep track of our personal bests like Olympic athletes, whilst the vast majority are just happy when the pain stops, especially when the pounding crash of the heartbeat and gasping breaths return to normal.

In the Blue Mountains National Park, the litmus test of such challenges (on well marked walking tracks) is Perry's Lookdown. This is our exit point from the Grose Valley, back up onto the top of the escarpment, which we then follow along the cliff edge to finish at the iconic Govetts Leap.

As a rewarding day walk (0800-1800), it's a big undertaking and only for experienced, fit and fast walkers. However, doing it over two days allows you to camp amongst the towering Blue Gums at Acacia Flat, adjacent to the Blue Gum Forest - a great campsite - and allows you to spend time in the Grose and soak up the atmosphere of one of the Blue Mountains great delights.

As with a lot of Blueys walks, you start off by descending 300m to drop off the escarpment into Victoria Falls Creek below. The views from Victoria Falls lookout are nice (although you can't see the falls) and they give a great overview of the yawning gullies below that you're about to venture into.

I always enjoy a visit to the base of the falls (a wee side trip), especially in warm weather, as its guaranteed to be cool. And, like something from the Enid Blyton books from my childhood, I've always loved scrambling up the steep scree slope to walk behind the wall of water as it tumbles off from above!

The track crosses Victoria Creek and continues the theme of lush, green, rainforesty goodness along to Burra Korain campsite at the junction with the Grose River. This is my standard morning tea spot perched on the exposed rocks in the middle of the river.

Oh, and don't be embarrassed if you feel like you lose the track at this point. I think everyone's done it! It crosses Victoria Creek and goes through the campsite, before doubling back over to the southern side of the river, where it stays for the rest of the trip.

Crossing Victoria Creek

It's at this point (during morning tea) that I always look up and marvel at the scale of the cliffs and ridge lines around me. The Grose (along with its south western cousin, Kanangra Gorge) are the places in the Blue Mountains that really "do" dramatic cliffs. Massive sandstone monoliths and walls that look like God has been decorating a 20 layer cake for eternity.

Once you're on the southern side of the flow, just keep the Grose River on your left and you'll end up in the Blue Gum Forest.

Although you're following the river, don't underestimate the landscape, thinking it will be all flat. The terrain is constantly undulating alongside the somewhat toxic (see the book 'The Upper Grose Valley - Bushwalkers Business' by Michael Keats and Brian Fox) - but absolutely stunning waters. You will feel like you're in the middle of nowhere!

At writing this in 2013, the track conditions are good and varied, although there is some dodgy erosion around the steep (and steeper every time I visit) point where Hungerfords Track joins from the northern side of the river. This is the access to Pierces Pass and an exit route to Bells Line of Road.

It's hard to describe the beauty in this place. I once led a Silent Walk along here for my club where the plan is to not speak whilst walking, taking your breaks in soilitude and quiet contemplation, but where chatting quietly around the camp at night is welcome. It's during this trip that I realised how noisy the bush can be. Birds, bubbling water, wind in the trees and the plod of walker's feet.

I usually aim to have lunch (late) in Little Blue Gum Forest, from where it's just over 2km's to the Blue Gum Forest proper and the junction with the Perry's Lookdown track.

Caro gets amongst the Blue Gums

The junction with the track to Perry's Lookdown is marked in a modern sense with a good National Parks and Wildlife Service (NPWS) sign, along with a new (2012) information board that explains the history of the forest and other interesting facts. The traditional marker, however, is a massive (and I mean MASSIVE) Blue Gum. This grandfather has been the familiar, welcoming friend to countless bushwalkers over the years. It's hard to miss and if you say "the big tree" to any bushwalker from the region, they'll know what you mean... Even in amongst a forest of other towering giants, this gentleman stands out.

So, now the real fun begins. Perry's Lookdown ascends roughly 600m in 1km. If you do the maths, you'll realise what that means. The NPWS sign at the bottom suggests 2-3hrs for the ascent, but this would be for someone with low fitness. The best advice I can give is to start with a pace that will be sustainable throughout, even if it feels like a slow plod at beginning, you'll be glad you did when you get to the steeper, wider steps and finally the rock steps, minor scrambles and steep steel stairs at the top. Oh and most importantly... Don't forget to look behind you and admire the view along the way. If nothing else, it gives you a chance to catch your breath... One of my favourite excuses!

Once at the top, you'll see a poignant memorial to 4 young bushwalkers who died in a bushfire here in 1957. After a pause to reflect and let the heartbeat return to normal, then continue to follow the track up to the carpark.

Don't get excited though... We're not finished yet!

The next stage is a small road bash of about 3kms along Hat Hill Road, to bring you to the left hand (south-east) turn to Pulpit Rock Lookout.

Pulpit Rock is one of those iconic Blue Mountains features that when you see it, you'll say, "Ah, I've seen that in photos before... With a rock climber hanging off it."

Pulpit Rock

This is a fantastic photo opportunity where the scale of the valley really starts to make sense.

This is also the point in the trip where you'll start to encounter more people and walkers. For those who don't have the inclination or ability to descend/ascend into the valley, the views from the escarpment from here - to Govetts Leap are a good alternative.

Follow the Pulpit Rock track around the tops (leaving the Mt Wilson 1:25,000 map and joining Katoomba 1:25,000), keeping the cliff to your left. Be aware that there are a number of other tourist tracks in the area so make sure you keep your navigation wits about you, especially as your stamina may well be flagging at this point!

Between Pulpit Rock and Govetts Leap

Great views, lush, muddy little gullies that cross creeks and the thought that your car is not far away now - in fact, you can glimpse the Govetts Leap carpark through the trees. It’s here that I can begin to taste the shandy at the pub!

If you can get the timing right, being at Govetts Leap at sunset is one of life's real FREE pleasures and a magnificent end to a varied walk.

From Govetts Leap

Again, most people would do this walk in 2 or even 3 days (Camp 1: Burra Korain. Camp 2: Acacia Flat). The pace necessary to do it in one is not everyone's cup of tea, so give it some serious thought as to how you're best equipped and qualified to undertake it.

If you're an interstate or overseas visitor, with both good fitness and hiking experience (but short on time), this is an excellent overview walk for the Blue Mountains with rewards that match the efforts that you'll need to put in.

What's your favourite bushwalking nemesis? If you have any stories, updates or corrections, please let us know by commenting below.

Are you interested in more from Bushwalking Blog? You can either sign-up for the e-mail newsletter, or get updates via the RSS feed, Facebook or Twitter.

The post Guest post: The bushwalking nemesis: A Blue Mountains trail that makes hikers groan appeared first on Bushwalking Blog.

There are four things, in my mind, that make a hike a good one. Hills – where would the fun be in hiking without them; views - which one can so often naturally find at the top of those hills; ecosystem diversity; and water – to look at, and to swim in. The Deep Creek Circuit hike in Deep Creek Conservation Park has all those elements, all along some nicely maintained trails.

Deep Creek Cove

Deep Creek Conservation Park is an hour and half drive south of central Adelaide, and offers lots of camp grounds for those that way inclined. The Circuit can be done clockwise or anti-clockwise, from either Trig Campground or Tapanappa Campground. Both start locations are at the top of hills. The hike ventures down to the valley bottom before returning to the hill tops – once on the way over via the northern route, then back again via the southern route. I prefer clockwise because the gradients are easier, the steep sections are downhill, the uphill sections on the better-contoured trails.

Tapanappa Lookout

From Tapanappa Campground the views from the grassy hilltop over the headlands and long beaches of the South Coast are delightful, and who could object to sharing the view with the grazing kangaroos. First on the hike it’s down to the coast, so heading clockwise around the circuit. Later it’s up to Trig Campground, before returning via the waterfall. The first up-close glimpse of the rugged coastline is breathtaking, seeing the wild waves crashing into the base of the rocky cliffs.

The trek down to Deep Creek Cove is quick, which means, quite simply, it’s a very steep trek down. The little beach in the cove is wild, the rough seas crash into the collection of large rocks interspersed with driftwood. The estuary behind the rocky beach, the outlet of Deep Creek, is calm and sandy, and not a bad place for an impromptu game of cricket (truly, I’ve seen it).

Wild waves at Deep Creek Cove

The hike out up to Trig Campground is gentler. Recent fires have cleared much of the landscape. The hillside is regenerating with towering Xanthorrhoea shoots rising from blackened stumps. The Xanthorrhoea, or Yackas, are an ancient plant that withstands fire well. It would want to, when the plants can easily be between 200 and 600 years old.

Half way up the hill there are the ruins of an old one-roomed cottage, with thick stone walls and a fireplace. The door faces the vast valley, away from the coast. It’s hard to imagine quite what was in the mind of the original settlers, or what activity they were undertaking in this dense, rugged area. Nearby are the remnants of a large walled garden.

Deep Creek Waterfall

The trail enters Trig Campground at the picnic area, with a nice shelter. Following the road north about one kilometre through the campsite one finds the long distance hiking trail, the Heysen Trail, as it crosses the road. It’s also our route back down the valley, to Deep Creek Waterfall. It’s a steep descent, but not as steep as it was from Tapanappa Campground down to Deep Creek Cove. This time the trail is well stepped, and there’s usually plenty of people to encounter on this popular section.

Down in the valley, Deep Creek Waterfall with its waterhole can be found. The creek doesn’t always flow, as seasons vary, but can sometimes be found flowing in summer. The waterhole is, by South Australian standards, a good one. This time we were greeted with plenty of pond scum, which somewhat dented the initial enthusiasm to strip off and jump in. Lying in the sun, on the large rocks beside the pool, forms part of the essential rest-time here.

Walking out from the waterfall and valley, the track up to Tapanappa Campground is new and very well graded. It’s a welcome track, an easy climb as it contours around the hillsides.

Deep Creek Valley

The diversity of ecosystems throughout this circuit hike makes it all the more enjoyable. If I was a knowledgeable scientific chap, I’d impress you here with the various Latin names, some of the 700 flora species found in the park. But I’m not, you see. From the Xanthorrhoea hillsides (ooh, got a bit of Latin in there), the grassy hill tops, to the closed-in humid valley nooks, and the stands of tall eucalypts, the ecosystems offer a variety that stands in contrast to the cleared farmland further inland. Kangaroos, echindas and blue tongue lizards are plentiful, as unfortunately, are the flies when there’s no breeze.

Have you visited Deep Creek Conservation Park? If you have any stories, updates or corrections, please let us know by commenting below.

Are you interested in more from Bushwalking Blog? You can either sign-up for the e-mail newsletter, or get updates via the RSS feed, Facebook or Twitter.

The post Guest post: The four elements: A circuit at Deep Creek Conservation Park has all the ingredients for a great hike appeared first on Bushwalking Blog.

Mud, tamarind monkeys, turtles, capybara, long-nosed bats, all kinds of birds, a snake, army ants, leaf-cutter ants, butterflies, squirrels, black caiman, and a tour guide named Elvis.

That’s the quickest way to sum up the two days we spent hiking the Tambopata-Candamo National Reserve, in the Peruvian Amazon Basin.

Staying at the Libertador Tambopata Eco-Lodge, we were limited by the programs they offered to visitors, but these didn’t disappoint. My only regret was that we didn’t spend more time there.

Each day’s hiking took us to a different ox-bow lake and, as I’ve mentioned, gave us a brilliant overview of the area’s flora and fauna. Our guide, Elvis, was a very entertaining local character with an infectious laugh. He knew everything about the area and was excited to share his knowledge.

Aside from the two day-hikes, we were also treated to a night walk to spotlight for nocturnal wildlife. Had we stayed an extra day or two, we could have gone swimming in the caiman-infested waters near the lodge (for some reason this idea excites me), and explored a whole lot more hiking trails un-guided.

Note: This is the combination of two posts from back in 2009, republished as a photo essay. Information in the aforementioned posts was mostly out of date, poorly written, and pretty much useless. I decided I’d like to keep the photos, since they were probably the highlight. I hope you enjoy.

Each of the two day hikes during our stay was reached via an early-morning boat ride on the Tambopata River.

Leaf-cutter ants were everywhere in the jungle. They’re fascinating creatures to watch.

Some of the trees in The Amazon have trunks covered in massive spikes. Being the super-coordinated person that I am, it was no time before I had a very close encounter with one of them.

Fortunately this was as close as we came to any snakes during our jungle adventure. Unfortunately, this was the best photo I could get (and I didn’t catch what type of snake it was).

Our first day’s hike took us to Lake Condenado, where the guide took us out on a very well-used banana boat (which he is emptying of water in this picture). We floated around, soaking up the jungle atmosphere and hearing about the different wildlife around the ox-bow lake.

Long-nosed bats camouflage themselves on a log at Lake Condenado.

The jungle floor is home to some interesting funghi.

We were made to wear gumboots for both of our hikes. This was extremely uncomfortable but, as you can see, it was necessary.

We encountered a lot of army ants during our hikes, which didn’t go down very well with some of the less brave members of our tour-group.

We came across some amazing and very different flora during our visit. However, some of it actually looked very familiar. Our guide said this is a relative of the bird of paradise flower.

A stink bird (they do have another name but, funnily enough, this was the name that stuck in my mind) at Lake Sachavacayok.

The butterflies in The Amazon were amazing. I’ve never seen so many different colours, shapes, and patterns.

A capybara on the banks of the Tambopata River. This is one of my favourite animals from the jungle trip.

Have you visited the Peruvian Amazon Basin? If you have any stories, updates or corrections, please let us know by commenting below.

Are you interested in more from Bushwalking Blog? You can either sign-up for the e-mail newsletter, or get updates via the RSS feed, Facebook or Twitter.

The post Photo essay: Two days in the Peruvian Amazon Basin appeared first on Bushwalking Blog.

Mount Cobbler is a peak in the Alpine National Park, on the northern edge of the Cobbler Plateau. You can drive a conventional vehicle (preferably someone else’s) to within a few kilometres of the summit, set up camp beside Lake Cobbler, and stroll to the summit. The sign pointing the way says two hours but it took me over 20 years.

My first bushwalking attempt at Mt Cobbler was around 1985 and I had never been hiking in my life. Greg, my bushwalking partner, talked me into a trip to the Razor–Viking. The plan was to drive to Mt Speculation and walk from there but the Kingswood wasn’t going any further than King River.

Mt Cobbler became the next target and Greg knew a shortcut. The next hour or so was spent blindly bashing through scrub before retreating to the road. The road bash up The Staircase was tiring and getting to the summit of Cobbler to find it wasn’t really the summit but a false summit was too much.

It seemed like a summit to me so, while Greg continued on alone, I stopped and considered what I heard learnt on my first ever bushwalk – a shortcut can waste a lot of time, and some mountain summits aren’t real.

Lake Cobbler

The second attempt came 20 years later – Greg with his nephew and myself with my son. We set up camp at King River and dinner preparations began then quickly stopped when we realised most of the food was still in the fridge at home.

A vote was taken and as I was supposed to pack the food it was decided that I would head back to Mansfield for supplies. The car’s oil light started to flash as I drove and I aborted the trip and headed back to camp.

Greg and the boys had gone for a bit of a walk and a murder of crows had taken advantage of the situation to invade the remaining tucker. Cobbler was postponed and we camped by the river until the remaining food run out. A further lesson had been learnt – crows will eat pasta.

My third attempt was with my son. We drove to King River and started the hike to the lake, ignoring Greg’s shortcut and heading up the road. It was hot and the track steeper than I remembered. We made the lake by mid-afternoon and set up camp.

Fires had recently been through the area and the track to the summit was closed. We spent the next day keeping cool in the lake, checking out the falls, and generally being laid back. The weather stayed hot and we managed to hitch a lift back to our car to save the sweaty hike back.

Mount Cobbler

Attempt number four was with Greg and his nephew. Not taking any chances we drove to the lake. Our hike to the summit started well. The track follows an old snig track but somewhere branches off and becomes a walking track – not sure where because we missed the turn-off.

Figuring that if we pushed on we must eventually hit the track that crosses the plateau we continued. Greg’s nephew, however, wasn’t convinced and began to worry.

We pulled out the map and showed him the clearly marked track crossing the plateau and ending at a question mark in the middle of nowhere. “See”, we reassured him, “We know exactly where we are–just near the big question mark.” Despite his protests we continued on, past the question mark, to the actual track and the summit.

And this time I climbed the real summit. I still haven’t made the Razor – Viking though.

Have you visited Mount Cobbler? If you have any stories, updates or corrections, please let us know by commenting below.

Are you interested in more from Bushwalking Blog? You can either sign-up for the e-mail newsletter, or get updates via the RSS feed, Facebook or Twitter.

The post Guest post: Cobblers and perseverance: Reaching the summit at Mount Cobbler, Alpine National Park appeared first on Bushwalking Blog.

The Mount Cougal bushwalking track would have to be my favourite day walk adventure in the Gold Coast Hinterland. The best way to describe this bushwalk is that your only guide is the barbed wire fence that separates the two states of Queensland and New South Wales.

The terrain is diverse. Immediately after climbing the gate to start the bushwalk you are scrambling up the first hill. A hiking pole is highly recommended or you will be grabbing the first stick you can find or holding onto any shrubs that you can come across. Depending on the time of year and rainfall the vegetation can be dense and the ground wet and slippery.

After the first short climb you enter a wild cane grass-like forest. Just beyond is your first picturesque plaque with sweeping 360-degree views down Currumbin Valley to the sea, northern New South Wales, and Mount Warning disappearing into a blue haze.

 

It is here on this grassy plateau standing in waist high grass that those mystic peaks of the Cougals become clearly visible.

On this occasion the Eastern Peak is our objective. Gazing at our destination the original names of these peaks springs to mind, Ningeroongun and Barrajanda, named after two hunting dogs.

Keeping the barbed wire fence to your left, there are times when you crisscross between both states where the fence has been flattened by fallen trees during violent weather that is so much a part of this beautiful bushland. A thunder storm can sweep around the scenic rim swiftly, dump its havoc and disappear, so be prepared!

The rain-forest section of the Mount Cougal bushwalking trail is spectacular, towering Red Cedars and bloodwoods testament to what lies in the valley floors below, those logging days when these beautiful trees were ripped from their ancient environment.

Finally you reach what seems to be a dead end; an impenetrable rocky outcrop at the base cliff of the eastern summit. At this point you must walk away from the fence, head right and negotiate the climb to the next ledge. However, before going on you should take a few minutes and head left to soak in the vista of the border ranges and Mount Cougal’s western peak looming above you.

 

Retrace your steps back and head right, along the base of the Eastern Peak’s cliff face; this is the most psychologically challenging part of the climb, there are no markers showing you the entry point to the final climb and it’s here that many fail to reach the summit. I might add there is a cave in this area that is worth investigating, you can see the western peak through an opening however the cave is easily missed.

Finding the access point to the Eastern Peak isn't easy, but there is one hidden like the gate to a secret garden, with spear lilies concealing the entrance.

Upon arrival at Mount Cougal’s Eastern Peak the 360 degrees views are spectacular, Springbrook Plateau, the border ranges and beautiful Tweed Valley with Mount Warning far off in the distance. Through the Grass Trees (Xanthorrhoea) you can see the western peak waiting to be conquered, but that’s for another day….

Have you visited Springbrook National Park? If you have any stories, updates or corrections, please let us know by commenting below.

Are you interested in more from Bushwalking Blog? You can either sign-up for the e-mail newsletter, or get updates via the RSS feed, Facebook or Twitter.

The post Guest post: Walking between border lines: Mount Cougal’s Eastern Summit appeared first on Bushwalking Blog.