Bucket List: Lord Howe Island – A guide to an unspoilt hiker’s paradise

Lord Howe Island

By John Game, on flickr

It’s the kind of place I dream about visiting.

I’ve generally only written here about places I actually visit, but at times like these I figure why not share my bucket list. I do so much research, regardless of how far away this hypothetical trip might be, that it’s probably worth sharing. This is the first in what will hopefully be a long line of posts that share the hypothetical; the far off trips that might not happen for another 20 years, though hopefully I’m wrong.

Lorde Howe Island looks extraordinary. It’s tiny, at just 11 kilometres long and on average two kilometres wide. Its permanent population is around 350, and there are only beds for 400 guests at any one time. There are very few cars on the island, so the focus is on getting from A to B by cycling, and walking. So much walking. Just the way I like it.

The island is home to countless hiking trails that suit everyone from children to experienced and fit adult adventurers. There are flat, sea-level hikes, half-day walks to stunning landscapes, or mountainous hikes that would make even the fittest hiker weep. Nearly two thirds of Lord Howe is permanent park preserve, and it can be explored by an extensive series of well-signed and well-worn trails.

It’s even been compared to the Galapagos Islands. Almost half of its native plant species and much of its wildlife are found nowhere else in the world.

The Clear Place & Valley of the Shadows

Valley of the Shadows

Image courtesy of Destination NSW

Bird enthusiasts will enjoy many Flesh-footed shearwater burrows along the way. Though completing this hike in the dark isn’t a good idea, it might be worth bringing a torch and timing it to finish just after dusk when you’ll witness them circling and eventually landing to return home for the night.

Your next stop is The Valley of the Shadows, one of Lord Howe Island’s most extraordinary locations, named for the dappled sunlight from the giant Banyan Trees and Kentia Palms in the surrounding 40-metre high forest.

Banyan Trees are a ‘Strangler Fig’. A parasite that germinates in the branches of other trees and sends down roots, which eventually strangle the host tree. These roots create a unique forest understorey of what looks like cages, or trees with legs. Apparently, there’s a Banyan Tree here with limbs stretching out to the size of a football field.

Need to know

Mount Eliza, Kim’s Lookout & Old Gulch

View of Lord Howe Island from Mt. Eliza

By Tracey Hind, on flickr

Unfortunately, the summit is closed in the warmer months to help protect the Sooty Terns that nest around this stunning peak. The track to the summit still offers impressive views, even if you don’t make it all the way.

Along the way, hikers can take short detours to Kim’s Lookout (1 km return) and Old Gulch (400 m return). The “Need to Know” section below assumes you’re taking both side trips.

Kim’s Lookout affords magnificent views over Old Settlement Beach, while Old Gulch is a deep cavity in the cliffs where you’ll find a stunning rocky inlet. At low tide, rock-hop around to the east (right) to find the Herring Pools. Bright blue rockpools that are teeming with sea life (you’ll need to allow extra time), since they refill at every high tide.

Need to know

Mount Gower

Mount Gower

Image courtesy of Destination NSW

The hike to the summit of Mount Gower has been named as one of the world’s toughest day hikes and is arguably Australia’s best.

Unfortunately, a guide is compulsory if you want to complete the Mount Gower Summit Hike. While that may be off-putting for the hardcore hikers among us, it’s the way things are. There are probably even good reasons for the rule. One being that the tracks are completely unmarked in parts, and another being that the island is just as popular with less seasoned hikers as it is with the hardcore.

To me, this is not that big a sacrifice and it even has its advantages, like the guide’s extensive local knowledge of the flora, fauna, and history of the area.

By all reports, the guides on Lord Howe are pretty fantastic company, too.

Starting from near sea level and hitting 875 m at the summit, over only 7 kilometres, it’s fair to say the hike is strenuous for most of the way. Some sections even have ropes affixed to the rock to aid hikers in traversing safely. If you’re terrified of heights, this may not be the hike for you.

Views across the island from the summit are spectacular, but even if it’s covered in cloud – as it often is – they’re just as incredible on the way up and back.

It isn’t all about the views either. The flora and fauna are something else. Lord Howe Island is one of only a few islands in the world with true cloud forests. You’ll love the unique vegetation near the summit as you enter the cloud forest, teeming with a variety of ferns, mosses and orchids.

Need to know

What else is there to do on Lord Howe Island?

When’s the best time to visit Lord Howe Island?

The Lord Howe Island weather is mild all year round. Between July and August, the average maximum temperature is 19 degrees celsius. For the rest of the year, it’s around 25 degrees. Daily minimum temperatures range from 20 degrees in summer to 12 – 14 degrees in winter.

Lord Howe Island Accommodation: Pinetrees Lodge

Your stay includes 4 gourmet meals a day, and the Lodge is happy to pack a picnic lunch for you to take on your hiking adventures or just enjoy on the beach. Local seafood is the feature that most visitors seem to rave about. Those visiting with kids will love the babysitting service and kid’s meals.

Check out the Pinetrees Lodge website for current pricing and booking information.

Need to know

Have you been to Lord Howe Island? Got any questions, comments, updates or corrections? Let us know by commenting below.